Italian Indulgence: A Day in Bologna, Modena and La Croce
From June 20th. The tour became very busy so I have been a little delayed in my posting. The journaling continued but I enjoyed my evenings with my friends and my family were in town on the tour. Please pardon the delay in posts.
Morning: Bologna to Modena – Cheese Dreams Begin
We left Bologna early this morning with the golden light just brushing the rooftops, heading toward Modena. The drive itself was scenic — fields dotted with hay bales, and those romantic rows of poplars swaying in the breeze. Our destination? A Parmigiano Reggiano factory just outside the city.
The Cheese Factory Experience
Walking into the factory felt like entering a temple of tradition. We were greeted by the rich, nutty aroma of aging Parmesan — instantly mouthwatering. The tour began with the milk vats, where raw cow’s milk is transformed into curds and whey under the watchful eye of artisans. It’s a surprisingly hands-on process.
The highlight? Watching the cheese wheels being carefully lifted from the vats like precious treasures. Then we stepped into the aging room, where thousands of wheels lined tall wooden shelves, silently maturing over the months (and years). We even got to do the traditional “cheese knock” — tapping the wheels with a metal hammer to check their aging quality. A quick tasting followed: sweet, salty, crumbly perfection. Aged 24 and 36 months — both divine.
Lunch in Modena – Culinary Artistry
After the tour, we headed into Modena for lunch. This city, home of Massimo Bottura, exudes culinary pride. We opted for a small trattoria and ordered tortellini in brodo and tagliatelle al ragù — handmade, delicate, and soul-warming. Of course, we drizzled some traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena (another regional treasure) on a hunk of aged Parmigiano.
Afternoon in La Croce – A Toast to the Vines
In the early afternoon, we drove to La Croce, a tiny, tranquil area nestled in the countryside. Rolling vineyards greeted us as we approached the winery — a family-run estate where passion flows as richly as the wine.
Winery Tour & Tasting
The owners walked us through the vines, explaining the local grape varieties (mostly Lambrusco and Pignoletto in this area). Then we moved into the cellar for a tour of the barrels and bottling area. Cool, quiet, and filled with the earthy perfume of fermenting grapes.
The winery also served us homemade bread, local salumi, and — you guessed it — more Parmigiano. Sipping wine in the shade, surrounded by vines, the air still and warm… it was one of those rare moments of total contentment.
Evening Return to Bologna
As the sun dipped low, we returned to Bologna, tired but happy. A short walk through the portico-lined streets and a final gelato sealed the day — pistachio and stracciatella from a tiny shop near Piazza Maggiore.
